Cold Comfort

Brrr. The weather has finally turned cold, rainy, windy and bone-chilling.  A hint of ugly things to come.

And when it gets cold and wet outside, my thoughts always turn to….

Comfort food.

I find myself daydreaming about the warm, wonderful, soul-satisfying dishes that I enjoyed as a kid.

Sadly, most of these restaurants have taken their rightful place in Restaurant Valhalla but I can still remember and taste- and take solace in- their delicious delights.

Join me now as I take a calorie-free, no guilt trip down food Memory Lane.

Our Cold Comfort tour must start at Winnetka’s own Indian Trail.

Founded in 1933 by the Klingeman family, this was THE place for old-fashioned comfort food.  Their rolls and desserts were legendary.  Their salad dressings divine.

But for me, the star of the show was their simple, down home American cooking.  Cooking that you just can’t find anymore.

Chicken croquettes, Chicken Kiev, turkey fricassee.

  

Delish.

Indian Trail also made a great Yankee pot roast.

When was the last time you saw that on a menu?

(And if so, where?)

Now let’s drive up Green Bay Road about two hours.  We’ll turn at an old white house in Kenosha, Wisconsin.

Ray Radigan’s.

That “WONDERFUL FOOD” sign was just truth in advertising.

The relish tray always got you off to a great start and then, true to form, I would always order their terrific turkey dinner.

Author’s Note:  Starting to see a pattern here? I could eat Thanksgiving dinner 365 days a year.  To me, it’s the ultimate comfort food.

Sadly, Radigan’s too has closed its doors.  Eating habits have changed over the years and I guess they didn’t serve enough kale.

Now back in the car and let’s head back to Chicago.

I sure could go for a big bowl of chili and a tamale at Bishop’s.

Bishop’s is still in business, I’m happy to report.  Many a time I went there with my dad and we both dug in to steaming bowls of chili mac.

Nothing much has changed- including their prices.

Another place my dad would take me to is gone, however.

Mama Batt’s.

I loved their barbecued beef sandwich.  There was nothing “pulled pork” about it but still it was finger-licking good.  And Nate Batt- a friend of my Uncle Jack’s- was always there and always good for a kibbitz.

(He also had photographs of himself and hundreds of famous people plastered on the wall by the cash register.  This impressed thirteen year old me who had never heard of a trophy wall before.)

Now I want some comfort alla italiana.

Our first stop- the old Armando’s on Rush and Superior.  I always ordered this.

Chicken Tetrazzini – chunks of chicken with mushrooms in a cream sauce over fettuccine.

Gosh, it was great. I get all warm inside just thinking about it.

And now let’s head over to the dearly departed Como Inn.

Joe Marchetti’s pride and joy had a pasta bolognese that was dark and rich and huge. And hugely satisfying.

And finally there is an old, old standby favorite in the down-home cooking department.

Chicken pot pie.

I am thrilled to report that I can have a dee-licious one- creamy rich sauce loaded with crisp veggies and fabulously-flavorful chicken chunks- any time I want.

All I have to do is make my way to The Grill on the Alley and call for the bar menu.

True, at $19.25 their take on my old favorite is pricey.  It’s also enormous.

But great news, Dear Readers!  They’ve just unveiled a mini version of their brioche-topped masterpiece and it’s only $12.  Much easier on the wallet- and the waistline.

It’s my new favorite entree when I need some TLC.

That’s it for now.  I’m going off in my mind to search for some really great onion soup.

Hope you find this comforting.

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24 Responses to Cold Comfort

  1. Gary W says:

    All were great for comfort food and memories Ellen. Thanks for the tour. For french onion soup I always liked The Shrimp Walk in Highwood.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      The Shrimp Walk! Haven’t thought about that place in ages. Thanks, Gar. Good memories for me too on this cold midwestern morning. 🍲

  2. david j slaven says:

    many great memories for me at the indian trail inn…it was so warm and comfy….and we ate at comos a few times… remember peacocks ice cream?

  3. Kevin Gibson says:

    You are so right about Thanksgiving dinner 365! My mother’s turkey dinner is a culinary masterpiece. From her perfectly cooked bird to her mother’s stuffing recipe to the creamed pearl onions, it’s impossible to not bust a button. If there weren’t waistline consequences, I’d belly up to Mom’s Thanksgiving table every day. Thanks for the trip down Comfort Food Lane.

  4. Annie says:

    For my family, The Indian Trail was our Sunday haunt. My aunt and uncle ate there five nights a week. It became their kitchen. Because it had three separate dining rooms, there was never any boredom among it’s frequent diners. Another great choice was The San Pedro at Plaza del Lago. Wonderful for family dinners with an optional indoor porch for preteen birthday parties. Many delightful memories of both restaurants.

  5. Dicky says:

    You always get me w the food stuff.

  6. Mitchell Klein says:

    Comfort food for me is spelled “Manny’s”. Like the lyrics to Arlo Guthrie’s song Alice’s Restaurant, you can get anything you want at Manny’s.

  7. Steve Lindeman says:

    You brought back some great memories Ellen. Mama Batts was my Dad’s favorite place to go when I would meet him at his office and we would have a guy lunch….loved it. Indian Trail and Peacocks were great too. But my favorite place for a good old burger and onion rings was Hackney’s….which back in the day was a great place to take a date too.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      Hackney’s is basically still Hackney’s. Looks exactly the same. Thanks, Steve. Come in and get some onion loaf sometime. 🍔🍟

  8. Barry Lukoff says:

    And don’t forget Fanny’s in Evanston for the most amazing spaghetti sauce anywhere.
    Or the elery seed salad dressing at the Indian trail.
    Now you have me on a roll..no pun intended. We used to have our 150 employee holiday party at the Como Inn. We used the entire upstairs. Armando’s was a regular for my family once we moved downtown and it was my go-to place to take a date. Armando and Pete were family friends and I never needed a reservation. And I had breakfast last weekend at Walker Bros. Original Pancake House. They have 2 locations in SoCal.

  9. David Brode says:

    Pekin House for over-the-moon egg rolls. Nothing quite like them – then or now. In fact, hard to find good Chinese restaurant anywhere these days.
    Not to mention that I had always assumed that I was the only kid who ordered Chicken Tetrazzini at Armando’s.

  10. WILLIAM SPATZ says:

    What happened to Washington Gardens?

  11. Kennedy says:

    The Willow Inn was a fave with my family, if you forgot to wear a coat they had some doozies to loan. The oxtail soup at the Chalet in Deerfield was warm comfort too. Two of my Dad’s faves: Del Rio and Beinlich’s still stand, So many great places have gone and new ones abound and my grown kids have their own favorites as well as some old shared family classics. My kids were brought up on Fanny’s sauce and until recently it was our Christmas Eve tradition. Sadly that is gone from grocery shelves (my son is waging a campaign with the company to bring it back, the stuff in the jar just doesn’t cut it for us)

    • Ellen Ross says:

      I can think of one thing to add to this wonderful trip down North Shore food Memory Lane. You know I have written my own love letter to Fanny’s. I’m with your son 💯! Thanks, Kennedy!

  12. Kennedy says:

    And on the fast food end, The Toddle House in Hubbard Woods was a gem!!

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