Breakfast of Champions

It’s Sunday morning, Dear Readers, and that means I feel like a great breakfast.

Don’t you?

When I was a kid, I don’t remember liking breakfast at all.

Usually, I’d just skip it.  I was never hungry in the morning.

If push came to shove, I’d grab a quick bowl of Rice Krispies or a cinnamon raisin thing from the pink Burny Brother’s bakery box that usually sat on the kitchen counter.

It wasn’t until I was an adult that I came to understand the lure of a well-grilled sausage patty or the charm of delicious eggs benedict.

So let’s visit some of my favorite places and see what’s cooking.

I’ll start at the beginning.

And in the beginning, if you were a kid from the North Shore, it all started at Walker Brother’s.

In case you don’t recognize it, that’s a photo of Walker Brother’s famous apple pancake.

Here’s the recipe.

But if you feel this is too labor-intensive, I suggest you get your self here -if possible.

It’s a memorable way to start the day.

If their apple pancake is not to your liking, I can personally recommend the corned beef hash and the sausage patties.

And the terrific dutch baby pancake.

Yum.

I hear great things about their coffee, too.

Bring a hearty appetite- and a hearty wallet.  WB is pricey.

And bring some patience, too.

On a Sunday morning, the line in Wilmette usually spills out on to the sidewalk on Green Bay Road.

Walker Brother’s was my starting point.  It was here that I learned that breakfast could be more than Frosted Flakes.

But I had never experienced that thing called “brunch” until I went to San Francisco.

And then I discovered the Mark Hopkins Hotel and their world-famous “Top of the Mark.”

It was probably around 1972 and my Baltimore husband and I were there on a pleasure trip.  He wanted a great breakfast and someone at our hotel- the Fairmont- told him about this.

I was young and breakfast-naive.  I had never seen so many choices before.  All I can remember now is that they served a “cake” made out of iced pancakes and you got a slice out of it.

It was fabulous- and filling.  In fact, when my brother Kenny was going to San Francisco with some college chums, I touted him about this “all you can eat” extravaganza.

As I recall, he told me later that after the huge buffet breakfast, he and his pals flew to Las Vegas and they didn’t have to eat until the next day.

Money well-spent.

I don’t do “all you can eat,” any more but I still stand by my recommendation.

Take a look.  (Ignore the narrator.  He seems to be an idiot but the brunch looks swell..)

Flying across the country now leads to my favorite Sunday brunch place of all time.

New York City’s jewel in the crown…

George Lang’s brilliant and beautiful baby, Café Des Artistes.

But don’t make your reservations just yet.

Sadly, both the man and the restaurant are gone now.  Much to the grief of New Yorkers and tourists alike.

George Lang was a fabulous man who lived an incredible life.

Even if you never ate one spoonful of his cooking, please read all about him here.

He created one of the most elegant and charming restaurant spaces I have ever been in. And if that wasn’t enough, I worshipped his roast beef hash.

I have searched for its equal on every breakfast menu I have read, and alas, I’ve never found a substitute for his.

These days, my daughter Natasha swears by this place.

The Café des Architectes at the Sofitel Hotel in Chicago.

She goes bananas for the bread basket and whenever she’s in town and time and budget permits, here’s where she goes. And why.

My current favorite place to indulge is way out in the western suburbs.

It’s called Alexander’s Café in St. Charles.

It’s not much too look at, that’s for sure.

It looks like it used to be an old Wienerschnitzel, and I would have driven right past it if it wasn’t for Yelp.

But someone mentioned something about “cinnamon butter.”

Omg.

What a great idea.

They have the BEST pancakes.  The syrup is sensational and that cinnamon butter- on the side for you to doctor them up as you see fit- is the best idea since bacon met eggs.

And their price point is easy on the wallet, too.

True, you have to drive to St. Charles to eat them. But if you find yourself out that way, give Alexander’s a whirl.

PAY IT FORWARD MOMENT:  Not too long ago, TBF and I had a Sunday morning breakfast at Alexander’s.  It was delicious as usual and we enjoyed every bit of it.  As he finished his coffee (great, he says) and called for the check, our waitress came over with a twinkle in her eye.

“There is no check, sir,” she said.  “Someone in the restaurant already paid your bill for you.”

Huh?

“Who paid it?” we asked.  “Why did they pay it?”

“I can’t tell you that.  I was sworn to secrecy.”

Our heads were turning as we surveyed the restaurant trying to figure out who our mystery breakfast benefactor was.

“And it’s no use guessing because they have already left,” she added.

Wow!

That’s never happened to me before.

Or since.

But we keep going back to Alexander’s to see if lightning can strike twice.

You should, too.

Happy Sunday, all.

Here’s to a good morning.

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14 Responses to Breakfast of Champions

  1. Jack C. Feldman says:

    Ellen— with apologies to the rest of the country, I think you could have confined your breakfast menu on Sunday to Chicago and kept your blog short today. I consider the several Walker Bros. Locations the best breakfast restaurant in the country and that includes some very nice hotel restaurants in New York and San Francisco, I’ve never shared breakfast with anyone who could eat an entire apple pancake but they certainly are popular — and have been for decades.

    Blueberry pancakes and pecan waffles are also wonderful and the corned beef hash makes a three egg omelet a delightful breakfast. Yes, the coffee is terrific.

    Second place goes to the cinnamon rolls at Wrigleyville’s Ann Sathers Restaurant. I’ve had breakfast at the Fairmount in San Francisco and the old Plaza Hotel in New York City but I think these two Chicago area eateries top them all. But an early visit to Walker Bros. on Saturday or Sunday is required. Otherwise the wait will make you a grumpy diner. My compliments to Ray Walker and his children. He certainly knew how to make breakfast!!

  2. Bill Lepman says:

    No mention of Lou Mitchell’s… another Chicago great breakfast… I wish they had a Walker Brother’s here in Washington.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      Thanks, Bill! I could kick myself. I knew I forgot something and it was Lou Mitchell’s. Very good and I enjoy the circuses- not to mention the Milk Duds.
      We have Walker Brothers but you have Bakery Nouveau. 😊☕️🥞🍳

  3. Robert Boehm says:

    Obviously you have never eaten at The Wolf Pack in St. Germaine. Best breakfast north of Highland Park. Try it when you are at Ojibwa in August.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      I’ve heard about this, Bob! Great corned beef hash, right? Maybe Matt Roffe will take me. He likes it. Thanks for the reminder. 🍳🥞☕️

  4. Steve Wolff says:

    My favorite brunch growing up was at home.

    To get all the goodies their was first a trip to The Milk Pail on Devon near Lincoln, then another jaunt to a bagel place on Touhy near Cicero (I think it was called Bialy’s but not positive). The wondrous smell of a bagel bakery, yummmmm.

    We had lox, bagels, cream cheese, onions, tomatoes… Generous helpings of perfectly made scrambled eggs and a side of bacon…smoked fish…and since my Dad was in the produce business he hand picked a huge assortment of fruit (cantaloupe, honey dew, grapefruit, oranges, casabas, bananas etc)…rye bread with a huge assortment of cheeses…and for the kids a delicious glass of whole milk (not 2% or non fat or lactose free) to wash it all down.

    The real reason it was the best brunch was that not only was the food terrific, but we had grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins at our house with whom to share it. And we actually had a meal and talked to people. No phones sitting on the table, no texting, no e-mailing, no studying Facebook. We actually faced each other and talked.

    P.S. There’s a Walker Bros. in San Diego. Lines go out the door!!

    • Ellen Ross says:

      Thanks, Steve,for mentioning the lox and bagel version of breakfast. Equal time across the breakfast aisle is a good thing. And you’re right of course. A meal is only as good as the people we share it with. Precious memories of many breakfasts of bygone days.

  5. mitchell klein says:

    When in New Orleans, a must is Brennan’s. But the all time breakfast spread is at the King David Hotel in Jerusalem. I have not seen more varieties of fruits, breads, meats, yogurts ever.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      Thanks, Mitch. I heartily concur on the Brennan’s for breakfast thing. Yummy. As for the other brunch, I’ll have to take your word for it. Next year in Jerusalem. And Mazel tov. 🍳🥞🥂

  6. A wonderful beautifully written story, and thanks for the link. For me, that apple pancake was the be-all and end all for date night and after skiing. The column brought back many memories, even of Café des Artistes. Thank you.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      Thanks, Richard. Glad you approved. And so nice that you took the time to tell me so. Really appreciate it. 😊🥞☕️

  7. Susan Alexander says:

    Guess what my wise children and their cousins gave my father for his 90th birthday back in 1992? And it was their idea. They gave him $90 worth of coupons for Walker Brothers. This was a perfect gift for the man who could be hard to buy for on special occasions because if he had the clothes he needed, he didn’t want any more.

    You are welcome to use this wonderful idea as a gift for someone in the future. Who could refuse it?

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